Beilstein & the Mosel River

Last full day in Cochem today.  It’s been great to drop anchor here after our last two relatively short stays.  Today was a ‘day off’.  But what is a day off when on holiday?  Ya have to do something.  We decided that we’d take the boat back to Beilstein, a small town that was our last stop before arriving in Cochem.  That visit was cut short by a sudden downpour / mini storm which although only lasted 30 minutes, was enough to interrupt the visit.  This morning is (for a change) heavily overcast and only 16C. Expected high is about 21C, so the heatwave has officially ended (in these parts anyway).
The morning started well with the usual big feed at breakfast, but this time with champagne!  Yup they came around with some bubbly (on the house).  It’d be too rude to say no!  Wunderbar!
All aboard.
Img_2865Passing St Martins gate (Martinstor – 1352).
Img_2870I think I snapped these buildings on the last boat ride. Worth a repeat.
Img_2876Vines vines and vines on slopes slopes and slopes.
Img_2883There’s a few folk out amongst the vines today. Seems today’s job is to tie the vines. Steep!
Img_2888About to enter the lock (about half way between Cochem and Beilstein).Img_2889We’ve got the green light to proceed.  The water level will be raised 7 metres (to the top of the black section you can see on the sides).Img_2895Ok we’re in.  Up we go.  Surprising how quickly they fill these things up (Mind you, there’s no shortage of water to help us out!).
Img_2899Nearly there.
Img_2904And….  green light. Ready to roll.
Img_2910There’s Beilstein.  A massive town <not> with a population of 137 (but who’s counting?).  We’ll climb up to the top of the Burg Metternich ruins, and not just to the ruins.  We’ll also climb to the top of the tall tower (just because it’s there!).
Img_2916At the ‘main street’ Bachstrasse.Img_2920In Marktplatz is Tithe House, a quarry stone building with polygonal staircase and half-hipped roof that dates back to 1537. (Updated in 1759!).Img_2923Heading along Bachstrasse to find the walkway to the ruins.Img_2931Otto’s cellar!Img_2932Here it is.  (From the uphill side).Img_2933It’s a relatively steep slog (but not a long slog). Noticed a few oldies putting in the hard yards, so well done to them.  Or was that me I just referred to!!  Dahhh….!  They sting you €2.50ea to walk up to the ruins!  Crazy. Fortunately, while Kath was paying I noticed a €5 note on the ground. Cost immediately covered!! 🙂Img_2935First glimpse. Don’t expect anything startling. They are ruins after all.  You guessed it. The castle (which dates to 1268) was destroyed by the French during their castle bashing tour of Germany in 1689. Img_2936Up and in.  It’s warming up a bit.  Jacket off!  But on the other side the wind will soon pick up.  Today the weather was sort of like New Plymouth weather.  Cloudy, sunny, cloudy, windy, rain, sunny, windy, cloudy, sunny etc <repeat>.  i.e. a pig’s breakfast.Img_2944From the ruins I zoom in on the lock.  Our boat is heading into the left channel.Img_2945Great views of the loop in the river.  Here’s the small town of Ellenz-Poltersdorf.Img_2951Img_2952The entrance to the old castle keep.  Up we go!  It’s a tight climb split into 4 sections (coz there’s no passing lanes in the tight stairways).
Img_2953The view from the top, looking down on part of the ruins and the town.
Img_2960Sweeping views from up here. The wide angle lens isn’t wide enough. Shoulda coulda done a panorama snap. Never mind.
Img_2962Where shall we build our sports facilities?  In the vines of course!!Img_2963Heading down.
Img_2967
And yes there’s a restaurant up here so drinks and food all ready for you!Img_2976Down we go.  Ruins art.
Img_2981Back into the main street (there aren’t too many others!).  This is the old toll house which dates back to 1634.Img_2986Restaurants but not much else in Beilstein so ladies, forget coming here to shop!
Img_2991We stopped in at a restaurant on Klostertreppe to sample a couple of the local wines.  As expected, they didn’t disappoint.
Img_2993Photo taken by the folk opposite us. We returned the favour (as you do).

And a vine canopy thrown in. Nice.
Img_3000Soon we’re boarding our boat for the return journey.  We’ve got company in the lock.  Enough room for us and one big bad boy barge, that’s it!
Img_3020
Start dropping the level!Img_3010The overflow spillway. Img_3023Going down!
Img_3029Open sesame!Img_3031Timeout for a moment.  I just want to say that we’ve had a variety of neighbours during our stay here in Cochem. No problems with any of them. All friendly. But today… we have some new American neighbours (from Arizona – they didn’t tell me, I overheard). Nice people anyway.  All along this 3rd level of the building are balconies, and the balconies aren’t exactly segregated so it’s easy to have a chat. Anyway, typically we have our doors to the balcony open during the evening.  Currently I’m sitting inside typing this blog post (as you do) and I can hear every word clearly from next door.  And I kid you not it’s like listening to a series of Barney crossed with the Waltons. LOL. Their conversations are soooo… ummm.. strange, if you know what I’m saying. Nevermind, back to task!
Below is our morning boat doing another run up the river.
Img_3036Kath gets into the wine.  Probably due to another couple we met on board.  Man oh man.  Rick and Robyn from NY State.  Very nice people but as we all know, but sometimes Americans can be on a totally different wavelength when it comes to humour, and worldliness.  LOL. And we sure had some interesting conversations (both on the way to Beilstein, at Beilstein, and on the way back). Say no more!  But now I have that Bobby Day song ‘Rockin’ Robin’ stuck in my head.  Get it?  As soon as I heard their names. Cracked me up ‘Rick n Robyn’.
Oops sidetracked again.  Notice the camping in the background. Something we saw while driving through oodles of towns along the Mosel river. Camping grounds were heavily populated, and there were plenty of them as well.  Mind you, a beautiful river to camp beside!Img_3040Ok I had to throw this pic in coz the boat was travelling the same speed as this dude, and he was with us for quite a while. 🙂Img_3047Steep slopes, vines, a road, and river. <repeat>Img_3049The An old monorack. Looks like a 3 seater.  Would you head up a 45 degree slope (and some) in one of these?Img_3051Tieing the vines.  Watch your footing lads!  (A big zoom lens required for this pic).Img_3054Another transportation track (probably just for gear going up and grapes coming down).Img_3056These guys used the monorack.  Respect.  Looks like they’re also going to tie vines.Img_3057Barge!Img_3060All but back.
Img_3064Outing done. About 4 hours altogether this round trip. Boat cost: €16ea.  Wine: €more.Img_3069We walk towards the square and Kath makes a rare find. There’s Sauvignon Blanc in the window!!  Haven’t seen any until now (aside from a random few in the supermarket – including Brancott Estate from Marlborough @ €8.89 – NZD14.80).Img_3073Into Markplazt again. The Rathaus closer up (virtually unchanged since 1739).
Img_3074A couple shots in the square.
Img_3076Img_3078We wandered back down to the promenade to look for a lunch stop. With a name like Dudelsack, we had to go in!
Img_3081Besides, this guy was in their display window!
Img_3083Actually, not a bad feed.  I had a peppered steak which was cooked to perfection.  Kath had a schnitzel with ham and cheese on top.  Did the trick, we needed something after all the wine.
Img_3086Time to cross the bridge to base, relax, drink more, blog, drink more, have some nibbles, drink more, and organise the bags for tomorrow’s departure.
Barge!  And full of bucket loads of scrap metal. Some load!
Img_3090(Almost) barge art.
Img_3091Ok… so it was soon time to crack into another of Willy’s takeaways from Dambach-la-Ville. Loved this Pinot Blanc.
Img_3094Ooops I nearly forgot this one.  Scenario:  You’re at a supermarket in the Mosel river valley.  There are literally aisles and aisles and aisles of wine, and you’ve never heard of any of them.  You’re on holiday and work is not on your mind at all.  It’s a relaxing summer holiday.  Question: Which wine do you choose?  Answer: Below.  🙂
Img_3093
Ok… enough for today. Got things to do.
Guten nacht!

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4 Responses to Beilstein & the Mosel River

  1. Lisa Morrison says:

    Hi love seeing these blogs and pics! Looks amazing! Enjoy every minute!
    Lisa

  2. Jon Brown says:

    What’s this FACKWERK wine like? I must ask Matt, he’s been muttering about it all day…

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